Welding time!
First thing that is required is a stand; made from a couple of scraps of 1x1 mild steel tubing and a piece of L section.
I experimented a bit beforehand using some scraps of the same materials and decided that a fairly agressive butt-weld seemed to offer the best weld consistency. Close-up of the finished weld.
Lead-free brass parts brazed in place.
A view of the open end. I should probably have fluxed the inside of the tube more than I did to prevent the oxidation.
The lone fitting in the centre of the boiler tube is the brass thermal bridge that will sit inside the brew reservoir to facilitate the heat-transfer.
Last bit of welding it the most tricky as space it tight and the pipe wall thicknesses differ: connecting the brew reservoir to the boiler tube. The boiler is now done except for cleanup with pickling paste. This last task was significantly less fun as handling hydrofluoric acid is not exactly like playing with a bundle of puppies.
First thing that is required is a stand; made from a couple of scraps of 1x1 mild steel tubing and a piece of L section.
The tube rotates easily in the stand which makes it simple to keep the torch and filler material alignment correct.
I experimented a bit beforehand using some scraps of the same materials and decided that a fairly agressive butt-weld seemed to offer the best weld consistency. Close-up of the finished weld.
Lead-free brass parts brazed in place.
A view of the open end. I should probably have fluxed the inside of the tube more than I did to prevent the oxidation.
The lone fitting in the centre of the boiler tube is the brass thermal bridge that will sit inside the brew reservoir to facilitate the heat-transfer.
Last bit of welding it the most tricky as space it tight and the pipe wall thicknesses differ: connecting the brew reservoir to the boiler tube. The boiler is now done except for cleanup with pickling paste. This last task was significantly less fun as handling hydrofluoric acid is not exactly like playing with a bundle of puppies.
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