Pluuuumbing!
First order of today's business is the line from the inlet to the HX - this one is always open but requires an additional connection to the expansion valve at the sump.
I found that the tubing bender has a tendency to drag the section around the mandrel which screws both the tube and the placement of the bend. In order to get them in exactly the right place, I am using a clamp collar as a stopper. The marks on the tubing are either the start, middle or end of the bend and are aligned with the degree marks on the bender where they will end up when the bend is made; by measuring or simply rolling the straight tube around the mandrel (if that is even sort of clear).
Here it is in the bender.
This creates a bend with a radius of about 2.75", but I need this one to be smaller so I tightened it up with the Alien-critter-tool afterwards. Two more bends added and one to go.
This is a skill that needs a fair amount of practice in order to deliver good (and precise) results. I haven't done this for a while, so the first one took quite a bit of time (and plenty of adjustment). I have lots of admiration for the electrical conduit trade (ever looked at a manual for one of those deceptively simple looking tubing benders they use?). There is no correcting bends in that stuff with your bare hands!
The glands are pulled into axial alignment with the fitting when the nut is tightened, so there can't be too much fudging. Next is the auto-fill for the boiler with the solenoid in the line...
...and the connection from the solenoid to the inlet.
This one was done using 8mm line, which was far easier and more pleasant to work with than the 10mm. Next time, I will use only 8mm 'cause life is too short.
Now the really fun part :)
After cleaning the parts, I put little flux on the joint and a ring of the filler metal...
...and use a reducing flame (less oxygen than gas to avoid oxidizing the metals) to heat up the parts. Once the flux melts completely showing that the parts have reached temperature, the silver filler material flows into the joint perfectly. Mustn't forget to thread both nuts on the line because otherwise you are just starting over.
First order of today's business is the line from the inlet to the HX - this one is always open but requires an additional connection to the expansion valve at the sump.
I found that the tubing bender has a tendency to drag the section around the mandrel which screws both the tube and the placement of the bend. In order to get them in exactly the right place, I am using a clamp collar as a stopper. The marks on the tubing are either the start, middle or end of the bend and are aligned with the degree marks on the bender where they will end up when the bend is made; by measuring or simply rolling the straight tube around the mandrel (if that is even sort of clear).
Here it is in the bender.
This creates a bend with a radius of about 2.75", but I need this one to be smaller so I tightened it up with the Alien-critter-tool afterwards. Two more bends added and one to go.
This is a skill that needs a fair amount of practice in order to deliver good (and precise) results. I haven't done this for a while, so the first one took quite a bit of time (and plenty of adjustment). I have lots of admiration for the electrical conduit trade (ever looked at a manual for one of those deceptively simple looking tubing benders they use?). There is no correcting bends in that stuff with your bare hands!
The glands are pulled into axial alignment with the fitting when the nut is tightened, so there can't be too much fudging. Next is the auto-fill for the boiler with the solenoid in the line...
...and the connection from the solenoid to the inlet.
This one was done using 8mm line, which was far easier and more pleasant to work with than the 10mm. Next time, I will use only 8mm 'cause life is too short.
Now the really fun part :)
After cleaning the parts, I put little flux on the joint and a ring of the filler metal...
...and use a reducing flame (less oxygen than gas to avoid oxidizing the metals) to heat up the parts. Once the flux melts completely showing that the parts have reached temperature, the silver filler material flows into the joint perfectly. Mustn't forget to thread both nuts on the line because otherwise you are just starting over.
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